A Girl and Her Thumb

Yerevan → Nagorno Karabakh, 17-21st November, 2012

Alfie, H and I hit the road together not so early one Saturday morning. Our mission: to reach Nagorno-Karabakh in time for H to see it and get back for work on Monday.

I remember Reza, the guy I initially couchsurfed with in Yerevan, telling me once that he didn’t like Yerevan Armenians too much, but he liked the villagers a lot. I didn’t meet enough Yerevan Armenians to form an opinion, but I can see what he means about the villagers. One truck driver in particular warms my heart with his clear eyes and gentle manner. In Vayots Dzor, Armenia’s wine-making region, we pass small pitches of local wine, sold in plastic bottles. Our driver sees us looking and stops the truck. “Let’s buy him some”, says H to me as we climb out from the cab. The women take us inside…

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